A trend-surface technique for discrimination of surf-zone morphology: rip current channels
Version of Record online: 7 AUG 2003
Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
Earth Surface Processes and Landforms
Volume 28, Issue 8, pages 905–918, August 2003
How to Cite
Brander, R. W. and Cowell, P. J. (2003), A trend-surface technique for discrimination of surf-zone morphology: rip current channels. Earth Surf. Process. Landforms, 28: 905–918. doi: 10.1002/esp.489
- Issue online: 7 AUG 2003
- Version of Record online: 7 AUG 2003
- Manuscript Accepted: 25 JUL 2002
- Manuscript Revised: 25 MAY 2002
- Manuscript Received: 16 FEB 2000
- rip currents;
- nearshore morphology;
- trend-surface analysis;
A major problem facing coastal nearshore studies is the conversion of survey data to precise two- and three-dimensional representations of complex surf zone topography. In addition to inherent problems in providing accurate survey data, most signiﬁcant topographical boundaries are often delineated in a subjective manner. A trend-surface technique is hereby presented which provides an objective, rigorous, and replicable method of identifying morphological rip system channel boundaries in the surf zone. Using an extensive ﬁeld dataset obtained over two ﬁeld experiments, including an almost complete cycle of low-energy intermediate beach state evolution, this technique is shown to produce accurate planimetric dimensions for a range of topographic beach state morphologies. Previously absent or highly descriptive in the literature, formal morphometric deﬁnitions of geometric dimensions for rip morphologies, including rip-channel width, relief, depth, and cross-sectional areas, are provided. Several new aspects of rip-current morphology are discussed from results of the approach. The approach described here is also intended to illustrate the potential for future trend-surface applications to surf zone and other geomorphological studies. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.