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Topical L-Ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies

  1. Sheldon R. Pinnell MD1,
  2. Huanshu Yang MD3,
  3. Mostafa Omar PhD2,
  4. Nancy Monteiro Riviere PhD3,
  5. Holly V. DeBuys MD1,
  6. Linda C. Walker1,
  7. Yaohui Wang MD4,
  8. Mark Levine MD4

Article first published online: 7 JUL 2008

DOI: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x

Issue

Dermatologic Surgery

Dermatologic Surgery

Volume 27, Issue 2, pages 137–142, February 2001

Additional Information

How to Cite

Pinnell, S. R., Yang, H., Omar, M., Riviere, N. M., DeBuys, H. V., Walker, L. C., Wang, Y. and Levine, M. (2001), Topical L-Ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies. Dermatologic Surgery, 27: 137–142. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x

Author Information

  1. 1

    Duke University Medical Center, Durham, North Carolina,

  2. 2

    PhytoCeuticals, Elmwood Park, New Jersey,

  3. 3

    College of Veterinary Medicine, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, North Carolina, and

  4. 4

    National Institute of Diabetes & Digestive & Kidney Diseases, NIH, Bethesda, Maryland

*Address correspondence and reprint requests to: Sheldon R. Pinnell, MD, Duke University Medical Center, Department of Medicine, Division of Dermatology, P.O. Box 3135, Durham, NC 27707, or e-mail: pinne002@mc.duke.edu.

  1. H. Yang, MD, N. Monteiro-Riviere, PhD, H.V. DeBuys, MD, L.C. Walker, Y. Wang, MD, and M. Levine, MD have indicated no significant interest with commercial supporters. S.R. Pinnell, MD is a consultant for Skinceuticals (Dallas, TX). M. Omar, PhD is president of PhytoCeuticals (Elmwood Park, NJ).

Publication History

  1. Issue published online: 7 JUL 2008
  2. Article first published online: 7 JUL 2008

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Background. Reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet light result in photocarcinogenic and photoaging changes in the skin. Antioxidants protect skin from these insults.

Objective. This study defines formulation characteristics for delivering L-ascorbic acid into the skin to supplement the skin's natural antioxidant reservoir.

Methods. L-ascorbic acid or its derivatives were applied to pig skin. Skin levels of L-ascorbic acid were measured to determine percutaneous delivery.

Results. L-ascorbic acid must be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin. Maximal concentration for optimal percutaneous absorption was 20%. Tissue levels were saturated after three daily applications; the half-life of tissue disappearance was about 4 days. Derivatives of ascorbic acid including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-6-palmitate, and dehydroascorbic acid did not increase skin levels of L-ascorbic acid.

Conclusions. Delivery of topical L-ascorbic acid into the skin is critically dependent on formulation characteristics.

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