International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Cover image for Vol. 35 Issue 5

October 2013

Volume 35, Issue 5

Pages 411–523

  1. Editorial

    1. Top of page
    2. Editorial
    3. Review Article
    4. Original Articles
    5. Letter to the Editor
    1. You have free access to this content
  2. Review Article

    1. Top of page
    2. Editorial
    3. Review Article
    4. Original Articles
    5. Letter to the Editor
    1. You have free access to this content
      Filaggrin – revisited (pages 412–423)

      C. R. Harding, S. Aho and C. A. Bosko

      Version of Record online: 18 APR 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12049

  3. Original Articles

    1. Top of page
    2. Editorial
    3. Review Article
    4. Original Articles
    5. Letter to the Editor
    1. Investigating the origins of nanostructural variations in differential ethnic hair types using X-ray scattering techniques (pages 430–441)

      M. Wade, I. Tucker, P. Cunningham, R. Skinner, F. Bell, T. Lyons, K. Patten, L. Gonzalez and T. Wess

      Version of Record online: 26 JUN 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12061

    2. Comparison between fibroblasts and mesenchymal stem cells derived from dermal and adipose tissue (pages 448–457)

      C. A. Brohem, C. M. de Carvalho, C. L. Radoski, F. C. Santi, M. C. Baptista, B. B. Swinka, C. de A. Urban, L. R. R. de Araujo, R. M. Graf, I. H. S. Feferman and M. Lorencini

      Version of Record online: 27 JUN 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12064

    3. Potential of human γD-crystallin for hair damage repair: insights into the mechanical properties and biocompatibility (pages 458–466)

      A. Ribeiro, T. Matamá, C. F. Cruz, A. C. Gomes and A. M. Cavaco-Paulo

      Version of Record online: 21 JUN 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12065

      Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

      The objective of this work was to develop a new strategy to physically “repair” chemically damaged hair. Hence the human eye γD-crystallin, a protein from the superfamily characterized structurally by the Greek key motif, was studied. Based on the ability of proteins belonging to this superfamily to be involved in the coating of specific structures, the human γD-crystallin was chosen.

    4. Direct analysis of lipsticks by Sorptive tape-like extraction laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometry imaging (pages 467–471)

      D. N. de Oliveira, M. Siqueira, S. Sartor and R. Catharino

      Version of Record online: 15 JUL 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12066

      Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

      A novel and rapid technique for lipid evaluation in lipsticks is presented. This approach uses STE-LDI-MSI for fast fingerprinting of complex lipids, such as triacylglycerols, phosphoglycerols and simpler structures as free fatty acids. With no sample preparation, it has demonstrated to readily identify compounds of interest by integrating both full scan and MS/MS data. This work has focused on lipsticks of several brands globally marketed.

    5. N-Acetylglucosamine modulates function of the skin fibroblasts (pages 472–476)

      A. Połubinska, J. Cwalinski, E. Baum and A. Bręborowicz

      Version of Record online: 27 JUN 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12067

    6. Skin physiology in men and women: in vivo evaluation of 300 people including TEWL, SC hydration, sebum content and skin surface pH (pages 477–483)

      S. Luebberding, N. Krueger and M. Kerscher

      Version of Record online: 6 JUL 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12068

      Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

      The aim of this clinical study is the first systematic assessment of gender-related differences in skin physiology in men and women, with a special focus on changes over lifetime. Three hundred healthy male and female subjects (20–74 years) were selected following strict criteria including age, sun behavior or smoking habits. TEWL, hydration level, sebum production and pH value were measured with worldwide acknowledged biophysical measuring methods at forehead, cheek, neck, volar forearm and dorsum of hand. It was concluded that skin physiological distinctions between the sexes exist and are particularly remarkable with regard to sebum production and pH value.

    7. Whitening and antioxidant activities of bornyl acetate and nezukol fractionated from Cryptomeria japonica essential oil (pages 484–490)

      S. H. Kim, S. Y. Lee, C. Y. Hong, K. S. Gwak, M. J. Park, D. Smith and I. G. Choi

      Version of Record online: 6 JUL 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12069

    8. Release and in vitro skin permeation of polyphenols from cosmetic emulsions (pages 491–501)

      O. V. Zillich, U. Schweiggert-Weisz, K. Hasenkopf, P. Eisner and M. Kerscher

      Version of Record online: 17 JUL 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12072

      Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

      In this study we investigated the skin permeation kinetic of polyphenols, incorporated to semi-solid emulsions, and the release of polyphenols from the emulsions. Mixtures of model substances, consisting of catechin (C), epigallocatechine gallate (E), resveratrol (Res), quercetin (Q), rutin (Ru) and protocatechuic acid (PCA) were formulated into o/w-emulsions with different oil phase content (A: o/w ratio 50/50; B: o/w ratio 25/75, wt.). All substances could pass the SC barrier and were found mostly in the epidermis and dermis, confirming the potential of polyphenols as anti-ageing active cosmetic ingredients.

    9. Long-wave infrared radiation reflected by compression stockings in the treatment of cellulite: a clinical double-blind, randomized and controlled study (pages 502–509)

      E. Bagatin, H. A. Miot, J. L. M. Soares, A. Sanudo, J. P. J. M. Afonso, N. de Barros Junior and S. Talarico

      Version of Record online: 15 JUL 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12073

      Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

      Long-wave infrared radiation reflected by compression stockings in the treatment of celulite: a clinical double-blind, randomized and controlled study showed discrete benefit which was similar to just compression in areas with cellulite, with positive impact on quality of life of women.

    10. A novel proposal for labelling sunscreens based on compliance and performance (pages 510–514)

      M. Pissavini, O. Doucet and B. Diffey

      Version of Record online: 15 JUL 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12074

      Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

      Despite improvements in topical sunscreens developed in recent years, there remains a mismatch between expected and delivered photoprotection. This is more to do with the way sunscreens are used (compliance) than with concerns about their technical performance. In this paper, we go further by proposing a new way of classifying products by combining the claimed SPF (i.e. measured in vivo) with objective measures of the amount of product applied and uniformity of application.

    11. Composition characterization and clinical efficacy study of a salmon egg extract (pages 515–522)

      G. K. Lønne, R. Gammelsæter and C. Haglerød

      Version of Record online: 6 JUL 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12071

      Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

      Salmon eggs are rich in proteins, vitamins and minerals with anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as free amino acids and lipids documented to be beneficial for skin. Of the fatty acids, several are commonly used as skin penetration enhancers. We conducted a double-blinded, randomized clinical trial with 66 healthy female volunteers. Efficacy of the salmon egg extract was evaluated and composition of the extract was analysed in order to improve the understanding of the effects of the extract on skin. Treatment of facial skin with the salmon egg extract significantly improved all parameters investigated; wrinkles, pigmentation, redness, brightness and hydration, and led to global improvement of the facial skin

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  4. Letter to the Editor

    1. Top of page
    2. Editorial
    3. Review Article
    4. Original Articles
    5. Letter to the Editor
    1. Lipid distribution and influence on hair structure (page 523)

      M. H. Maneli, K. Mkentane and N. P. Khumalo

      Version of Record online: 13 SEP 2013 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12070

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