Retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid vitamin derivative, improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, randomized-controlled trial


H. Jung
Department of Biotechnology
Yonsei University
Seoul 120-749


Background: All-trans-retinoic acid (RA) and all-trans-retinol (ROL) are not widely used as anti-wrinkle agents due to their irritancy and photo-stability, respectively. Therefore, the safety and photo-stability in the development of RA or ROL derivatives have been an important issue.

Aim: To identify the efficacy of retinyl retinoate as an anti-aging agent of cosmetics in treating females over 30 years old with periorbital wrinkles.

Methods: The clinical study was a prospective, double-blind, randomized, and controlled study with a total of 11 Korean women. At every 4 weeks, the effectiveness was assessed with a global photodamage score, photographs, and image analysis using replicas and visiometers. The dermal distance and intensity was also evaluated using Dermascan C.

Results: A statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles (P<0.05) in eleven volunteers was observed in a clinical trial. The successive application of 0.06% retinyl retinoate cream for 3 months showed decreased depth and area of wrinkles in comparison with 0.075% retinol cream. The visual wrinkle improvement and the maximum roughness improvement rate (R2) for retinyl retinoate cream were 22% higher than that of retinol cream after 12 weeks. A statistically significant increase was observed after 8 and 4 weeks for dermal distance and dermal intensity, respectively (P<0.05).

Conclusions: Retinyl retinoate had characteristic features of new anti-aging agents, and effectively improved facial wrinkle conditions.