Efficacy of hydroquinone-free skin-lightening cream for photoaging
Version of Record online: 26 FEB 2013
© 2013 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Volume 12, Issue 1, pages 12–17, March 2013
How to Cite
Dreher, F., Draelos, Z. D., Gold, M. H., Goldman, M. P., Fabi, S. G. and Puissegur Lupo, M. L. (2013), Efficacy of hydroquinone-free skin-lightening cream for photoaging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12: 12–17. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12025
- Issue online: 26 FEB 2013
- Version of Record online: 26 FEB 2013
- Manuscript Accepted: 17 OCT 2012
- skin lightening;
- skin tone management;
- mottled hyperpigmentation;
Hyperpigmentation and solar damage remains a difficult problem to treat with topical agents.
To evaluate a novel skin-lightening complex (SLC) comprising four actives targeting melanin formation at multiple levels, namely disodium glycerophosphate, l-leucine, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine, in an oil-in-water emulsion cream.
Skin-lightening complex was evaluated in 80 female subjects of skin types I–III with at least moderate mottled hyperpigmentation. After a wash-out period of 1 month with a sunscreen, the subjects added a cream containing the SLC for 12 weeks twice daily to entire face and continued the sunscreen use.
Whereas there was no significant change during the wash-out period, the primary endpoint mottled hyperpigmentation decreased by 32% after the 12-week treatment period with the SLC cream. Secondary endpoints such as severity and number of lentigines, skin tone, and skin brightness also improved. In all, 57% of the subjects showed at least a moderate response, 17% did not improve, and 3% got worse after the treatment.
The SLC cream was well tolerated, in particular when comparing with exfoliating or peeling agent containing skin-lightening products. When used with a daily sunscreen, this study confirms that the SLC represents an alternative to hydroquinone, retinoids, and many other skin-lightening actives.