International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Cover image for Vol. 36 Issue 3

Early View (Online Version of Record published before inclusion in an issue)

Edited By: Editor in Chief: Karl Lintner, Associate Editor: Majella Lane

Online ISSN: 1468-2494


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  1. Original Articles

    1. Texture analysis of cosmetic/pharmaceutical raw materials and formulations

      A. Tai, R. Bianchini and J. Jachowicz

      Article first published online: 30 JUN 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12125

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      Typical plots of experimental data of immersion-deimersion of cylindrical indenter in the product formulation and the definitions of calculated parameters.

    2. Effect of mixed surfactants on stratum corneum: a drying stress and Raman spectroscopy study

      P. Purohit, P. Chandar, A. Vilinska, K. P. Ananthapadmanabhan and P. Somasundaran

      Article first published online: 12 JUN 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12139

    3. An efficient and rapid thin-layer chromatography method for the identification of 32 dye substances in hair dye products

      H. J. Zhu, Y. W. Yang and Y. Zhu

      Article first published online: 10 JUN 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12135

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      An efficient and rapid thin-layer chromatography method has been developed for the identification of 32 dye substances in hair dye products.

    4. Aqueous dispersions of organogel nanoparticles – potential systems for cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic applications

      P. Kirilov, S. Rum, E. Gilbert, L. Roussel, D. Salmon, R. Abdayem, C. Serre, C. Villa, M. Haftek, F. Falson and F. Pirot

      Article first published online: 16 MAY 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12131

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      Gelled particles of organic liquid and 12-hydroxystearic acid (organogelator) were obtained by hot emulsification (T>Tgel), with a surfactant (acetylated glycol stearate) and polymers (sodium hyaluronate and polyvinyl alcohol) as stabilizing agents, and cooling at room temperature (T<Tgel). An organic UVB sunscreen molecule, obtained by microwave activation, was used as a hydrophobic model molecule. The physicochemical properties of the starting organogel (gelation tests; rheological study) and the dispersed gelled particles (rheological study; particle mean size, size distribution, zeta-potential measurements; physical stability evaluation; UVB absorption and water resistance ability) were studied. The synthesis of sunscreen compound using microwave activation was also described.

    5. Understanding the dandruff scalp before and after treatment: an in vivo Raman spectroscopic study

      E. Y. M. Bonnist, P. D. A. Pudney, L. A. Weddell, J. Campbell, F. L. Baines, S. E. Paterson and J. R. Matheson

      Article first published online: 14 MAY 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12132

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      This describes a clinical study investigating the characteristics of dandruff scalp skin in situ with Raman spectroscopy, specifically the levels of naturally occurring skin components that are present in the stratum corneum region. We compared the results of dandruff sufferers with those of non-dandruff subjects, observe some key differences and assess the potential effects of an anti-dandruff active.

    6. You have full text access to this OnlineOpen article
      Influence of skin ageing features on Chinese women's perception of facial age and attractiveness

      A. Porcheron, J. Latreille, R. Jdid, E. Tschachler and F. Morizot

      Article first published online: 14 MAY 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12128

    7. Short-term clinical of peel-off facial mask moisturizers

      M. V. R. Velasco, R. P. Vieira, A. R. Fernandes, M. F. Dario, C. A. S. O. Pinto, C. A. Pedriali, T. M. Kaneko and A. R. Baby

      Article first published online: 10 MAY 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12133

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      Formulations (emulsion and peel-off facial mask) containing or not fermented soybean extract were applied to three sites designated on the volar forearm of each arm, and three parameters were analyzed: tensor effect, moisturizing and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The facial masks were more efficient than emulsions in relation to moisturizing effects but this efficiency is not related to the presence of fermented soybean extract.

    8. Yashada bhasma (Zinc calx) and Tankana (Borax) inhibit Propionibacterium acne and suppresses acne induced inflammation in vitro

      R. Sandeep Varma, S. Shamsia, O. S. Thiyagarajan, S. Vidyashankar and P. S. Patki

      Article first published online: 5 MAY 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12134

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      The present study investigated the in vitro effects of Yashada bhasma (YB) and Tankana on Propionibacterium acne growth and inflammation. Yashada bhasma and TA inhibited the growth of P. acne and abrogated P. acne-induced inflammation in THP-1 cells. Clinical studies have shown the benefits of these minerals in the treatment of acne. The present in vitro studies provide clear evidence to the findings of clinical studies. Thus, YB and TA may be used for effective management of acne infections.

    9. A new formula for a mild body cleanser: sodium laureth sulphate supplemented with sodium laureth carboxylate and lauryl glucoside

      Y. Takagi, M. Shimizu, Y. Morokuma, M. Miyaki, A. Kiba, K. Matsuo, K. Isoda and H. Mizutani

      Article first published online: 3 APR 2014 | DOI: 10.1111/ics.12127

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      SLES/AEC/LG induces much less scaling and erythema on skin. than SLES only and soap.


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