International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Cover image for Vol. 39 Issue 3

Edited By: Editor in Chief: Majella Lane, Associate Editor: Marc Pissavini

Impact Factor: 1.542

ISI Journal Citation Reports © Ranking: 2015: 32/61 (Dermatology)

Online ISSN: 1468-2494

Themed Virtual Issue on Sunscreen Research

The last two years have seen continued publications of theoretical and experimental work on sunscreen formulation, efficacy and analysis. The present selection of articles that appeared in IJCS in 2011 and 2012 focuses on these topics. "Nano" is the buzzword of the present times. Are "nanoparticles" of TiO2 and/or ZnO toxic? Do they penetrate the skin? Are they more efficacious? Can we modify their characteristics in order to address these concerns? These are the questions researches are investigating in novel and challenging ways. Of course, questions of regulatory compliance and harmonization of methods continue to be of importance in this field.

While international cooperation between numerous laboratories under the guidance of COLIPA (now Cosmetics Europe) has led to important progress in establishing guidelines and procedures for in vitro testing and scoring of UVA filters (article 1 by Moyal et al. and article 2 by Mc Cormick and Tsuzuki), a highly interesting theoretical approach to absorption and scattering of UV light by Egerton and Tooley (paper 3) shows us that our understanding of the interactions of light with inorganic particles has progressed to a point where reasonable agreement between observed and calculated values can be achieved, both for in vitro SPF and for UVAPF values.

Pissavini et al. (paper 4) describe a novel in vitro technique to measure the efficacy of sunscreens and demonstrate that often neglected factors such as easy spreading on the skin and pleasurable skin feel of a sunscreen formulation contribute greatly to the efficacy of the delivered theoretical SPF.

In a similar vein, the paper by Adihart and Baschong (paper 5) explores the use of Raman imaging and tape stripping to analyse the lateral and vertical distribution of particulate organic filters. Understanding in detail how these particles are spread over and into the surface ridges of the skin can greatly contribute to improved formulations and thus to increased sun protection and public health.

Papers 6-9 report on various ideas of coating, formulating and delivering nanosized organic and mineral based UV-screens.

The Revised COLIPA In Vitro UVA Method

In vitro testing of zinc oxide sunscreens

UV absorption and scattering properties of inorganic-based sunscreens

Predicting the efficacy of sunscreens in vivo veritas

Surface distribution and depths profiling of particulate organic UV absorbers by Raman imaging and tape stripping

Formulation of sunscreens with enhancement sun protection factor response based on solid lipid nanoparticles

The state of nano-sized titanium dioxide (TiO2) may affect sunscreen performance

Preparation and characterization of carnauba wax nanostructured lipid carriers containing benzophenone-3

Review of sunscreen and the emergence of non-conventional absorbers and their applications in ultraviolet protection