International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Cover image for Vol. 38 Issue 1

Edited By: Editor in Chief: Karl Lintner, Associate Editor: Majella Lane

Impact Factor: 1.377

ISI Journal Citation Reports © Ranking: 2014: 36/63 (Dermatology)

Online ISSN: 1468-2494

Themed Virtual Issue on Skin Whitening

Skin tone, i.e. the colour and luminosity of our skin as well as the homogenous distribution of skin pigmentation, especially in the face, are important characteristics of our appearance and therefore constitute a favourite target of cosmetic research. Influencing the melanogenesis in order to lighten and homogenise the colour and hue of the skin through various mechanisms involved in the enzymatic synthesis of melanin is the subject of numerous research projects and associated publications. This virtual issue of IJCS presents a selection of recent articles on the topic. While a great number of papers describe various plant extracts with or without defined active molecular structures (papers #1-5), other research is concerned with the underlying increasingly complex mechanisms of inhibition (#6). However the best in vitro studies are of little use without the observations obtained from the understanding of clinical studies. An example of this approach is given in paper #7. Skin "whitening", as is usually claimed, is nevertheless a delicate subject from a regulatory point of view. The analytical determination of ingredients found in cosmetic formulation (papers #8 and 9) is therefore not to be neglected: proving the absence of hydroquinone, or the presence of adequate amounts of "whitening ingredients," found by highly sensitive and rapid economical methods are but some of the basic requirements of GMP-conform cosmetics. As always, comments and reactions to these articles are welcome. Enjoy reading!

1. Schinus terebinthifolius Raddi extract and linoleic acid from Passiflora edulis synergistically decrease melanin synthesis in B16 cells and reconstituted epidermis

2. Screening of plant extracts for human tyrosinase inhibiting effects

3. Standardized extract of Syzygium aqueum: a safe cosmetic ingredient

4. Whitening effect of α-bisabolol in Asian women subjects

5. Clinical evaluation of a dioic acid-based formulation on facial skin in an Indian population

6. The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents – existing and new approache

7. Instrumental and clinical studies of the facial skin tone and pigmentation of Shanghaiese women. Changes induced by age and a cosmetic whitening product

8. Highly sensitive spectrometric method for determination of hydroquinone in skin lightening creams: application in cosmetics

9. Micellar liquid chromatographic determination of arbutin and hydroquinone in medicinal plant extracts and commercial cosmetic products